Notes on Coming Full Circle

Well. The time has come.

I'm home. Not Thailand home. Not even Maine home. Home home. Instead of walking through the gritty streets and sweltering heat that I have grown to love, I am now surrounded by soybean planting, lawn mowing and more rainy days than I would care for.  I have to drive my car to and fro, and I can't afford to fill my tank. I miss sticky rice, pad phak jay, and yes, even my corner 7/11 store. I find myself instinctively wai-ing when saying thank-you, which people find either amusing or just plain awkward.

It has been a month since my triumphant return to the Minnesota River Valley. Living with my family again for the first time in four years has been a culture shock in and of itself. Hearing only my mother tongue has been more difficult to get used to than it has in the past. My sense of anonymity has been replaced by a constant fear of running into people and forced into small talk - a conversational talent which now eludes me. 

    "Stayin' out of trouble?"

    "Tryin' to!"

    "Say, where were you again?"

    "I was in Thailand. It sure was hot over there!!"

    "So, I bet you can speak Taiwanese now, right?"

   (shift awkwardly, trying to come up with a tactful answer)  "Not as much as I'd like, but I a little!"

    "Well, welcome home. You haven't changed a bit!"

The conversation usually comes to a grinding halt right there, but I hope that I am becoming more graceful handling such situations. Thankfully, I've come to realize “not changing a bit” is, for the most part, meant as a compliment. Hey - maybe I still look like a fresh faced 23 year-old right out of college! Nah - that can't be it. Maybe I've been away from home (home home) too long, and now I'm having trouble reconnecting. That’s certainly possible.

What I’d LIKE to think though, is that although I've grown and evolved during my year away, I think that I've been able to retain much of what makes me ‘me’...whatever THAT is. And that's what I'm hoping my long lost pals have been noticing. And at the end of the cold, rainy and socially awkward day, that’s really not such a bad deal after all.

As for the small talk, I’m sure I’ll be Chatty Cathy again before we know it. Let’s all just appreciate the silence for now. ;)

It's never quiet with these two ladies around...

 
 
 

Vietnam in 5 Pictures or Less.

Subtitled - Danielle's Visa Expires

What to do when one's visa runs out? Flee the country as quickly as possible in search of coffee and baguettes. I mean, in search of culture and interesting people... :)

Done and done.

 
 1.) Charming Hoi An. Warning : you will get sucked in by the tailors. Mr. Xe rocked my incredibly unfashionable world.

 

 
2.) Me at the beach? Get out.

 

 
3.) Easy Rider tour in Dalat with my guide, Eagle. Rain = polka dotted ponchos.

For anyone interested in history and current events, get in touch with my guy, Eagle. His experiences and knowledge are extraordinary. I did two days of tours with him. Fab. Shoot me a message, and I'd be happy to forward his contact info if you're interested.

 

 
4.)  A bit of everything in Hanoi. Cathedral, traffic, motorbikes, locals enjoying a snack

 

 
5.) What's a visit to Vietnam without Halong Bay? Despite less than perfect weather, I guarantee we made the most of the evening on Hanoi Backpackers' Hostel's tour. Dance party til dawn? Foshizzle!

FYI - it's an awesome tour if you're traveling on your own. Actually, the hostel itself (go to the new one on Ma May) is pretty much awesome, too.

 

 

The Brandts Family Grocery List

As I'm nearing the end of my time here in Thailand, I've finally allowed myself the luxury of looking forward to the things (and by things, I mean, food) that I've regularly missed [eating] over the last 10 months. I've [hungrily] compiled a list of items that will make me happy [and overweight] upon my homecoming.  And Kevin, we have a Panera date. Your treat. Thanks.

• Grilled pork chops with creamed corn and mashed/scalloped potatoes.
• Cheese. Goat.
• Macaroni & cheese and pork 'n beans. Yummmmm.
• Honey Bunches of Oats (the gold box).
• Wine. Red.
• Gallon after gallon of milk.
• Potatoes. In any form.
• Panera Bread's chocolate chip bagels and brocolli cheese soup.
• Cheese. Brie.
• Grandma's meatloaf with red cabbage and boiled potatoes.
• Caribou Coffee's free refills.
• Brunch. Bloody Marys at brunch.
• Cheese. Mozzarella.
• Grandma's cream of wheat pudding.
• Pork. Home grown. In any form.
• Tator Tot hotdish.
• Apple turnovers.
• Wine. White.
• Did I mention cheese?     

Yes, I have one, and no you can't see it.

I went to the Chang again this weekend for multiple reasons: 1) to hang out with my pal Allie and meet some of her coolio friends. Check. 2) to lie on a beach, not shower for three days, and pretend I'm a hippie. Check. 3) to get a bamboo tattoo. Check and check.

While my father's jaw is hitting the keyboard, I'd like to fill the rest of you in on the history of bamboo tattoos. Thanks to the The Bamboo Rooms, here is a quick rundown:

It is difficult to pinpoint the exact origins of Bamboo Tattoo Art as the practice is so old the history is almost lost, being tied up with myth and legend. Many countries in South East Asia lay claim to be the birthplace of this ancient art form. However, it is generally believed to have originated in the Khmer period around 3000 years ago. There have been mummies found in the Philippines with bamboo tattoos still visible, block bands around the calf with tribal hierarchy significance.

In Thailand, bamboo tattooing began in the Buddhist temples, with monks receiving religious text tattoos from grand master monks for protection. Throughout periods of conflict in Thailand, soldiers would visit temples to be tattooed by the monks with spells for such things as protection, strength or invisibility. One Thai legend states that Thailand has never been occupied as the Thai soldiers are warrior ghosts who cannot be seen or killed by the enemy due to their protective tattoos.

In Thailand, nearly all Buddhist men become monks at some point in their lives to better understand their complex religion. During this time they are tattooed with religious texts to show the strength of their faith. Despite these deeply religious origins, tattoos are not currently mainstream in Thailand and largely seen, as historically in western culture, to be popular amongst criminals. This has only recently begun to change but nevertheless the art of bamboo tattooing is dying out with prevalence of learning to tattoo with a machine as it is easier to learn.

Not sure who this guy is, but I like the chill vibe goin' on.

After months of deliberation and two failed attempts, finally, success! Day of arrival, I went to a well known place on the island and was able to pass over the threshold with only a mild anxiety attack. Two hours, one large beer, and a whole lot more pain than I expected later, it was done. And I love it!

Now, I know what you may be thinking - what is it?! For the time being, I don't really feel the need to post pics of it online, but I'll show it to y'all in person in the near future. For those of you who won't have the pleasure of viewing my torso up close and personal, I've answered a few imaginary questions for curiosity's sake:

#1) Imaginary Interviewer: So, where is it? Danielle: It's on my left side.

#2) II: Did it hurt? Danielle: I think I was doing lamaze through the entire thing.

#3) II: Did you get "mai pen rai"? Danielle: No. No and no. Next question.

#4) II: Does it represent Thailand? Danielle: Not necessarily. I wanted a bamboo tattoo instead of a machine tattoo, but as for the background, it's more of a personal thing. Therefore, it is neither in Thai nor is it a traditional symbol of Thailand. Though maybe the next one...(kidding, Dad!).

#5) II: So what is it?? Danielle: It's a verse of a song, in a freestyle sort of script. 

#6) II: Are you happy you got it? Danielle: Very!

#7) II: Can I see it? Danielle: No.

#8) II: But whyyyyy?! Danielle: Shut up.

Thanks a million to Allie and Allison for stickin' it out the whole time, distracting me, feeding me beer, and everything in between. Cheers, ladies. Couldn't have done it without you.

And don't forget to check out the facebook page for The One Tattoo. His father tattooed Angelina Jolie. During some of my lamaze moments, I channeled my "inner Angelina". Hey, whatever gets you through the day, right?

 

It's ok, Mom. I'm saving myself for marriage.

As the sex education debate in America continues*, those of us out of our comfort zone are, well...perhaps seeking some comfort across the globe.

Since "humankind's most basic drive" extends beyond borders, and because I've received a few related questions, I wanted to put together some helpful "girly" information for current and future travelers to Thailand. And really, for all of [wo]mankind. Boys, you can read it too.

1.) Birth control pills. As a general rule, birth control pills in the US are expensive. Not only do you need to get that handy dandy prescription from your doc, but if you use insurance, you may not be able to stock up in advance. In Thailand, it's a tad easier. Pharmacies carry birth control pills, and you can purchase it over the counter without a prescription.

Can you taste the freedom??

There is a broad price range, but they are much cheaper than at home. My fave store, Boots, carries Yaz (the most expensive), as well as many other brands, and they often have an English speaking pharmacist if you have questions. If you want a pill similar to what you get at home, write down the name of the brand, the manufacturer, and the quantities of hormones in the pills. Ask the pharmacist for some help, buy out the store, and head home with a renewed peace of mind. :)

2.) PlanB or the Morning-After Pill. Also available in Thailand, and also much cheaper and easier to obtain than in the US. Again, Boots and other pharmacies sell it over the counter. If you go to a Thai pharmacy and run into some language barriers, ask for the brand name "Madonna". And remember, neither birth control nor morning-after pills offer protection against STIs, so, make sure to use....

3.) Condoms! As if this hasn't been drilled into our heads since those awkward pubescent days in health class (where I kept misreading the text and saying "public", instead of well, you know. Sorry Mrs. Esher). Condoms can be purchased almost anywhere (even our fave 7/11), but guys (and girls!), if you purchase condoms here, make sure to, um...take a test drive. I've heard some awkward tales, because, uh...the condom didn't really fit their needs. *cough*

If you're low on funds, the infamous Cabbages and Condoms hands out 'after dinner condoms'.  Strawberry flavored. So I hear.

                        

Because condoms have been used for at least 400 years (and because I'm such a huge geek), I've compiled some intriguing condom facts (with the help of Wikipedia):

a. In China, glans condoms may have been made of oiled silk paper or lamb intestines.   

b. In Japan, they were made of tortoise shells or animal horns (ouch!!). 

c. In the late 15th century, Dutch traders introduced condoms made from "fine leather" to Japan. Unlike the horn condoms used previously, these leather condoms covered the entire penis (love those Dutch).

d. Casanova in the 18th century was one of the first reported using "assurance caps" to prevent impregnating his mistresses (I believe it was an orange peel...).

e. The first rubber condom was produced in 1855. The earliest rubber condoms had a seam and were as thick as a bicycle inner tube.

f. Until the twenties, all condoms were individually hand-dipped by semiskilled workers.

4.) Pregnancy tests. Also, available at pharmacies. If you can't find one, you may have to ask the pharmacist for help.

I hope this information (and the history tidbits!) is helpful and makes things a little less stressful... As if moving to another country isn't stressful enough. Questions/concerns/comments - feel free to send them my way! NOTHING embarrasses me. True story.

Remember, Smokey the Bear says, "Only YOU can prevent unplanned pregnancies!".

Wait. That's not it...

*As a sidenote and shoutout to my former roomie and to an amazing organization, please help support Planned Parenthood. Stand Against Efforts to Defund Planned Parenthood

 

Social Networking/Online Chatting = Yay or Nay?

For anyone who knows me and is friends with me on Facebook, SKYPE, MSN, or even G-chat, you may have noticed that for the last 8 months, I've rarely been found "online". Yep, I'm invisible on purpose. 

People think I'm weird. Here and at home. "Why do you send me messages instead of just chatting?". "Why are you always invisible - I KNOW you're there!"

It took me bit to figure it out. It's certainly not because I'm here in Thailand, having such an awesome time that I don't have time to keep up with people. And it's not that I've changed so much that I don't have anything in common with my peeps (ok, maybe a little bit). But it is also just changes in lifestyle and changes in the way I choose to maintain communciation with the people who are important to me. 

 1.) I've learned to do without instant gratification (kinda). Want groceries? It's gonna be a journey - hope you've got some extra time to go get your DoubleStuf Oreos (or a pal named Allie to buy you some - holla!!). Want to go somewhere for the weekend? Expect at least 5-6 forms of transportation and a minimum of 12 hours of travel, including at least one death-defying bus ride. If I'm willing to hold out for those D'Stufs and spend more time in a freezing bus than on the beach, then I'm definitely willing to wait it out for a friend's message. Whenever it may come. Which leads me to...

2.)  I'm an email whore. It's not that I'm not keeping in touch with people who are important to me. I just prefer the more time consuming, thoughtfully written email (or better yet, letter!!). Someone took the time to write an email, and even bothered to check punctuation and spelling. Yay!! And in my predictable fashion - I write them, too. Long, rambling emails seem to be my forté - apologies to my friends who hate that. You know who are. And I won't be offended if you don't respond.

3.) Facebook Fatigue. This article is AMAZING. Read it. How Facebook Can Ruin Your Friendships (I'm backing the idea of "Get Facebook to Create an Eye-Roll Button Now!"). Not only is Facebook itself getting on my nerves, it makes me not want to sign onto anything online, ever:

One of the big problems is how we converse. Typing still leaves something to be desired as a communication tool; it lacks the nuances that can be expressed by body language and voice inflection.

Regarding social media in general, Christine Garvin says, "The interesting thing is, I don’t believe we think often enough about the implications of all the 'fun' and seemingly 'connective' technology in our life – how the faster this technology gets, the more it takes us outside of ourselves." - Social Media Hangovers: Disconnecting to Connect. Amen.

And just as a talking point - is anyone else out there tired of wedding and/or baby updates on Facebook? No? Guess it's just me then.

4.) It can be awkward. After being away for an extended period of time, chatting became time consuming and frustrating for me. Conversations didn't flow as easily as they once did (even just online), and it became a chore to keep up. And I always felt like I had to keep up. I thought, if a friend was trying to converse over Facebook or chat, shouldn't I want to participate? Not necessarily.

So, I don't. Facebook = offline. Gchat = invisible. SKYPE = I don't even sign on anymore (sorry, Mom - but I appreciate your emails!). It allows me more time to appreciate life in Bang Saen, and it also means that I am looking forward to calling friends during unlimited nights and weekends and/or visiting and playing catch up once I'm back home again.

Am I worried that things are sometimes awkward? Surprisingly - no. People change. And just because things may be awkward online right now, that doesn't mean it will be that way forever. But if they are, thankfully, in my almost 27 years (gulp), I've finally learned to accept change with a little bit of grace (I hope). It's just a part of life. And as always, MatadorNetwork writer Theodore Scott puts it best:

"You don’t have to stay friends with everyone with whom you used to hang out...Say “Hi” when you see old friends on the street, and don’t worry about growing apart. You are a different person now, and so are they."

 

A Bit of Culture - "mit kleinem k"*

*dedicated to none other than the great Herr Professor Ludwig (or "HPL" for short) of Gustavus Adolphus College

With the recent opportunities for travel, as well as the busyness of the past few months, I realized that cultural posts have been lacking as of late. I also felt a tad culturally encouraged when Moira eagerly absorbed my random trivial outbursts last week, sans annoyance...I think.  ("see all the people in the pink shirts?", "no, you don't need a knife - just eat like this"...)

That being said, the topic of today's post is...Spirit Houses!! What are they?

A spirit house is a shrine to the protective spirit of a place  that are found in the Southeast Asian countries of Burma, Cambodia, Laos and Thailand.  Most houses and businesses have a spirit house placed in an auspicious spot, most often in a corner of the property. The location may be chosen after consultation with a Brahmin priest. The spirit house is normally in the form of a miniature house or temple, and is mounted on a pillar or on a dais. The house is intended to provide a shelter for spirits which could cause problems for the people if not appeased.

Spirit Houses have intrigued me since my arrival in Thailand. I'm not really sure why - maybe it's because it involves belief in spirits, or it could also be because they are tiny. It is also DEFINITELY because Red Fanta seems to be a favorite among the spirits (don't you wanna). Why? I have absolutely no idea, but writer Peter Dickinson gives us this:

Because the spirits (Phra phum) prefer it. Because it is a favourite drink of the King of Thailand. In truth nobody really seems to have a definitive answer. People I have spoken to who claim to have seen the spirits say that are red in colour so this may be an explanation. Mind you they may have only got that way from from drinking too much Red Fanta (Nam Dang - Red Water). What they drank before Red Fanta arrived on the Thai market is anybody's guess.

To give you an idea of how commonplace spirit houses are, today I counted how many I saw on my four minute bike ride to school. The grand total = 10. And that is counting only those I could see from the street as I whizzed past on my tween-sized boys' mountain bike. In a skirt. Who knows how many I'd notice if I wasn't also trying to keep my skirt from flappin' in the breeze? :)

 

 

Dijon --> Boston --> Bangkok

I met Moira, or should I say, Moira met me, while I was passed out in our room while some tennis tournament blared on the television. The setting: City Loft Hotel, Dijon, France, circa 2005. I think our meeting went something like this:

Door opens. Me: "wha?? hello?" Moira: "I'm sorry! Go back to sleep!" sees the television. "Wait - do you play tennis?" (she played in college). Me: "No, I just wish that I did." *zonk*

So began our adventures studying and living in Dijon, France, where we would study business and French, eat unreal amounts of baked goods and pastries, drink gallons of wine and crème de cassis (a Dijon specialty), and gain more weight than ever imagined. A mere two years later, I up and moved to Boston, where Moira literally worked down the street from where I lived. We had a joyous reunion, and as Moira is New England born-and-bred, she happily introduced me to her love of Boston and of Cambridge.

On a tour of Harvard, Summer 2007                                

As you know, I no longer live in New England, so I wasn't sure when we would have the chance to reconnect again. Imagine my excitement when I received an email from Moira, saying that she was embarking on a school trip to Thailand in January. Now it was my turn to introduce my love of Thailand to my New England friend. Yay! And introduce I did.

Moira's ready to go. 

We met at her fancy hotel downtown, where I treated myself to a nostalgia-inducing Malbec at the bar. After a visit to the local whiskey bars and a marathon catch-up session, we slept in and indulged ourselves for breakfast, Sex and the City style, at a 24-hour cafe (croissants all around - France throwback!). After satisfactorily Frenchifying ourselves, we went straight to the ferry and on to Wat Pho, which was then followed by a relaxing afternoon by the river with coconuts. 

 

After even more snacks on the river, we tuk-tuked it over to Khao San Road for some shopping and some [more] cheap snacks. There was a lady selling donuts for 15baht. I had two. And I wasn't even hungry. I'm definitely my father's daughter.

  

We ferried it back to meet her friends for dinner at the fab Cabbages and Condoms. We were up mega early for Moira's flight back to the States, but not before our second Sex and the City inspired breakfast. I think our time revolved around eating, drinking coffee, catching up, shopping, and a bit of Bangkok sightseeing here and there. It was perfection. :)

Always use protection!  

 

In 5 Pictures or Less - Bali

Ok. Exactly five. Enjoy!

 
Bike rides and rice fields

 
Traditional dancing - Ubud

 
Tirta Empul - Spring Water Temple

 
Balangan Beach

 
Classy in Kuta

"We're with the band."



Subtitled: Welcoming 2011 with Alma Desnuda and Dogman Joe

Yea, I said that. No, not really. Jameson did. But that's beside the point. The point is, the band was there, we were there, and we were, like, with them. Jameson was amused that I kept jumping around exclaiming, "I've never ever said that! I've never been with the band before!!", immediately after cutting in front of dozens of waiting guests. It. Was. Awesome.

 
Me, Jameson and Shella on the elevator to see Alma Desnuda at the Rock Bar, Ayana Resort, Bali

But let me backtrack. Christmas/New Year's break. Bali, Indonesia. Our guesthouse. Musical folks from San Franciso and surfer financial geniuses from Ukraine. Bonding over Bintang and life missions. "So, what do you do?" inquired the Ukrainians. Good question.

But that, my friends, is how we found ourselves sharing our dreams and aspirations with each other one rainy night in Bali, and thus, receiving a warm invitation to the Ayana Resort, where Alma Desnuda, a fabulous band from San Francisco, was performing for New Year's. That's how we were with the band.

 

For two nights, Alma Desnuda* entertained the crowd (my fave - "if you're looking for the dance floor, it's right where you're standing") and performed riveting original songs with "funky grooves, earthy percussion, and vocal harmonies", as well as irresistible covers. We danced, we drank, we partied like it was 1999. Or something like that. Whatever year it was - they put on two awesome shows and celebrated the new year in style.

Not only did we get to spend New Year's with some fabulous new friends while listening to beautiful music, but I was also repeatedly punched in the stomach by this little woman, as she claimed me for her dance partner...

 

*Fun fact sidebar - The members of Alma Desnuda all met while studying abroad in Spain. Let's hear it for cultural exchange! Hip hip, hooray! 

 --------------

And for one more shoutout - check out the video below of my new friend, Dogman Joe. Be sure to check out his site, too!

 
Robin, Carla, Me, Shella and Jameson (other new friends not pictured - Ilya and Lana)

 
Performing at the Rock Bar

 
The view